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Last Updated on September 10, 2022 by Dominique de Merteuil
When in doubt, wear a Handmacher suit!
- History of the Handmacher suit.
- Examples of the 1940s and the 1950s Handmacher suits from my personal collection.
To say that I have an abundance of skirt suits made in the 1940s and 1950s would be an understatement as it’s my number one choice when buying vintage. I can never resist the immaculate tailoring that 1950s suits are so synonymous with, and when it comes to a choice between the perfect vintage dress and an equally perfect suit, I usually end up purchasing the latter.
Nothing can beat the versatility to which a vintage suit can be dressed up or down, making it the perfect choice for a day-to-night look, a real pièce de résistance. When shopping for vintage on Etsy or at any of the vintage fairs in London, I don’t look for any particular brands, with the exception of Lilli Ann and Dorothy O’Hara that is, because a lot of incredible garments from the 1930s and 1940s I’ve found over the years were custom made. There are times however when I get extremely excited about a vintage brand, like in the case of my latest purchase of a 1950s Handmacher suit, that I later found in Harper’s Bazaar from 1952![/bigletter]
We read in one of the ads for a Handmacher suit
Why are Handmacher suits so perfectly adapted to American living? Is it the beautifully easy way they fit? Their serenely classic taste? Their forthright price? One store in your city has Handmacher suits. Try them on and see for yourself
Well, I did try The Handmacher suit on, and it fits like a glove!
A brief history of the Handmacher suit.
- Alvin Handmacher, the president and co-founder of Handmacher-Vogel Inc., was one of the biggest manufacturers of women’s suits in the USA in the 1940s, 1950s and the first half of the 1960s. According to the Trademark Electronic Search System (TESS), the TAILORED BY HANDMACHER logo was first used in commerce in 1940, so it’s safe to assume that this was the year of the brand’s “birth”.
- Handmacher’s ads were very prominent and published in magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s and Mademoiselle. The 1949 TV ad for Weathervane suites was one of the most successful advertising campaigns of its time.
- Advertisement in LIFE magazine from May 11, 1953, reads;
Celanese* acetate wonder fabric used exclusively in the most famous suit in the world. Handmacher’s crisp, cool Weathervanes solve summer suit problem-cost only $25 and $30
Who designed the elegant, stylish and beautifully tailored Handmacher suits?
It was no other than the famous American socialite Jane Derby.
I found in a news article from The Evening Sun (Baltimore, Maryland) 21 July 1958 that Jane Derby, during one of her trips to Paris;
She turned from client to apprentice, working for three couturiers. She was taught to select fabrics, to draft and cut patterns and “to work from the muslin.
After her return from Paris to the USA she opened a dress shop. And in 1938 presented her first Jane Derby Collection of ready-to-wear suits and dresses. In 1946 she started designing the famous Handmacher suits for Handmacher-Vogel, Inc. Jane Derby was known for her elegance, sophistication and extraordinarily good taste, which she translated into her designs. Remember, when in doubt, wear a Handmacher suit!
- Until 1953, Alvin Handmacher was the main sponsor of the LPGA tour -The Ladies Professional Golf Association. The person responsible for convincing Alvin Handmacher to invest a lot of money into LPGA was its tournament director, the brilliant Fred Corcoran, known as “Mr Golf”. Corcoran’s daughter wrote in her book Fred Corcoran: The Man Who Sold the World on Golf;
Fred wouldn’t go so far as to say that without Alvin Handmacher and his Weathervane Championships, there wouldn’t be a women’s pro tour today. But make no mistake – Alvin put the Ladies’ PGA in business.
The legendary “Babe” Didrikson Zaharias represented Weathervane women’s sports clothes manufactured by Handmacher who paid her $10000 a year to wear his clothes.
*Editor’s note
I would gladly represent the Handmacher brand in exchange for an endless supply of his magnificent suits.
Here is a new to me late 1940s blue Handmacher suit paired with;
- A 1940s brooch
- 1950s gloves
- French Sole Penelope Ankle Tie
- Wolford tights
In 2021 I was lucky enough to find an identical Handmacher suit to the one pictured above but in green colour. I also know that there is a third colour version but someone else snapped it before I had the chance.
Useful Vintage Tips
If you are new to the world of vintage fashion and would like to learn how to date, store, clean and fix vintage clothes, head straight to the Vintage Fashion Tips section on my blog.
- You might be interested in my article on how to clean vintage clothes.
2. How to Fix a Hole in Clothes Without Sewing
Take a look at how I fixed many, many holes in my 1940s Handmacher suit!
Handmacher Suits Wishlist
I’m always on the look for yet another 1950s Handmacher suit. In particular one in black, grey or pink. Here are a few examples I’m drooling over.
1940s Handmacher suit1940s skirt suit1950s Handmacher suitDominique de Merteuilhistory of Handmacher suitIt's Beyond My ControlThe history of Handmacher brandvintage fashion blogvintage fashion look
Laura
September 9, 2022I just found a couple of weathervane jackets for a song. One need to be reworked. The other is in good vintage condition. How should they be cleaned? You have my email now, so I am open to tips!
Dominique de Merteuil
September 9, 2022Lucky, lucky you!
I wrote an article about how to clean vintage clothes, which you will find in the Vintage Fashion Tips section. I also added a couple of useful links to the Handmachr post.
I send all my Handmacher suits to a trusted dry cleaner. The only exception is my black Handmacher suit from 1952 because the collar is embellished with beads.
Before you take your Handmacher jackets to the dry cleaner make sure there are no holes or tears!
Laura
September 9, 2022Thank you! I would like to send you a picture of what I found! (as well as the label) Can I do that? Also, I want to say that I’ve been reading through some of your articles, and not only are you beautiful, knowledgeable and have fascinating content, you are also an excellent writer! The way you write is so refreshing!
Dominique de Merteuil
September 10, 2022Dear Laura,
Thank you so much for your kind words! Comments like yours make me want to research and write more. I received your e-mail, and I hope you don’t mind me replying here instead. I think this might be useful to a lot of Handmacher fans who are trying to determine the age of the garment. I published an article on how to date vintage clothes with all the clues and tips, but let’s use your two jackets as a case study.
First, let us start with the main clue-the tag.
Handmacher launched the Weathervane line in 1947. We read in an ad that appeared in 1953 in Life magazine that “Not so many years ago, Handmacher introduced a completely new kind of suit made of Celanese acetate, the Beauty Fiber. He called it the Weathervane.”
The “Weathervane tailored by Handmacher a Celanese rayon fabric RED.US. PAT. OFF” tag was used on suits from the date of their inception till the late 1950s or early 1960s. I’m trying to determine the EXACT date when Handmacher changed the design of the Weathervane tag, but I’m pretty sure it was around 1964. The new Weathervane tag is a simple version of the old one. It simply reads, “Weathervane tailored by Handmacher”, without mentioning Celanese acetate fabric. Also, you will find the AFL-CIO union tag attached to the lining of the jacket.
So, based on the tag on your jacket, we can determine that it was made between 1947-1963.
Second clue-the seams.
The seams in my unlined jackets from the 1940s and 1950s are unfinished or pinked. On a side note, I’ve seen 1920s breeches with overlock stitching!
Your Weathervane styled by Handmacher jacket has neat and finished seams on the back. And I have seen it on many of the 1960s Weathervane jackets.
Third clue-the shape
It’s hard to tell from the pictures you sent, but it looks that the previous owner removed the shoulder pads. The collar and overall shape suggest that it’s from the late 1950s and early 1960s. I have a folder on Pinterest with ads for Handmacher suits, and I suggest you go through it and perhaps find something similar. Pay attention to the collar.
I hope it all helps!
Alison Cloonan
April 17, 2021Beautiful Hanfmacher suits top quality and a great read.
Dominique de Merteuil
April 18, 2021Thank you!
I find Handmacher suits irresistible!
Elizabeth
March 30, 2021I inherited a mohair jacket Hanfmacher from my mother. I remember her wearing it in the 60s so she had it longer than that. Still in mint condition, buttons and all. Just wondered if they were still in business. Nice to read the history.
Dominique de Merteuil
March 30, 2021That’s amazing!
I LOVE the 1940s and 1950s Handmacher suits. Unfortunately, they are very sought after and therefore awfully expensive. I was lucky with the blue and white suit as I found it on eBay for $70. Normally, they go for around $350.
Alvin Handmacher died in 1966 and even though the company produced garments till much later, it was never the same. To answer your question, the company is not longer in business.
Eva Bayrak
May 2, 2020I love your site!! I am a vintage obsessed and collector, and I try to buy mostly vintage, but sometimes is tricky to find day to day basics for my outfits, that is why I felt the need to create
kalypso
Ive just launched the first vintage inspired womenswear collection 100% made in Barcelona, Spain in a very sustanaible way. I hope you like it!
Dominique de Merteuil
May 4, 2020Hi Eva,
I’m thrilled to hear that you like It’s Beyond My Control!
90% of my garments are from the 1930s, the 1940s and the first half of the 1950s. I know what you mean about the day to day basics, especially for running around the park with a dog. I usually opt for a pair of Jodhpurs I would wear for horseriding and a simple 1940s blouse.Thank goodness for dress shields! 🙂
I’ve just had a look at your website and see that you are influenced by the 1950s?
Donna
April 30, 2020This suit, like all of your outfits, brings to the fore your striking and impressive looks! These suits are very flattering on someone of your height – love your delightful shoes too!
Donna ♀️❤️
https://donnadoesdresses.com
Dominique de Merteuil
April 30, 2020Thank you for your very kind words!