Helena Modjeska-Icon of Style. Reconstructions of XIX century costumes

June 21, 2013

Last Updated on July 7, 2022 by Dominique de Merteuil

Helena Modjeska, Polish actress and a style icon.

Once a year, on the day of my birth, I like to indulge my senses, in a way, an act of regenerating, of reminding myself of who and what I am. On one of these occasions, I was taken to Versailles by Mr de Merteuil, waking on the morning in a hotel that used to be the royal stables and spending the afternoon eating macaroons in le Petit Trianon, while watching wildlife drift by in the lazily setting sun. This year it was spent at Wilanów Palace, the former residence of Polish Kings located on the outskirts of Warsaw, which I relished visiting for the opportunity to willfully gratify my taste for art, beauty and most importantly cake.

I take a cake very seriously, it’s an art form in its own right but it wasn’t the only reason for visiting the palace, as I wanted to see an exhibition that’s just opened there as it’s one that panders to another of my passions, 19th-century costume design.

The Exhibition!

Titled ‘Helena Modjeska – Icon of Style’, the exhibition, like me being Gemini, has something of a split personality or at least comes in two parts. One half is devoted to recreations of costumes worn by the actress Helena Modjeska, while the other half focuses on a contest set for young enthusiasts of historical tailoring, to create a design inspired by her. I’m sure you’re wondering who this Helena Modjeska is and why she deserves so much attention. Simply put, she was a Polish actress in the 19^th century famed though-out Europe and America for the creativity and construction of her stage costumes, many of which she designed herself. Well respected for her taste in fashion, she influenced the likes of famed English actresses Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry. She was also at the forefront of a trend to modernise stage costuming to bring it in line with 19th-century tastes.

So there you have it, a true Belle Époque woman, a fitting one to pay tribute to and to follow in the footsteps of. So I’m excited to share with you all my discovery of her and of how fresh young designers have interpreted the designs that she wore.

RECONSTRUCTIONS

First prize in the category Reconstructions was awarded to work by Anna Franczyk

Second prize was awarded to work by Pawel Androsiuk

The third prize was awarded to work by Marek Zietka

INSPIRATIONS

First prize in the category Inspirations was awarded to work by Klaudia Kukula, age 28

“I was inspired to make this design by a dress of Helena Modjeska from private photography. Out of love for all kinds of overprints I have transferred the main motif on the fabric captured in the photo, which is a crane, on the dress-which is itself very simple in style, The dress is made of white and dark blue fabrics. The white fabric is plain weave cotton and the contrasting dark blue fabric is a mix of polyacrylonitrile and wool, heavy twill weave. Dress’s cut is simple. It is cut just below breasts, its sleeves narrow with puffs. The lower line of the dress from the front is shorter than on the back, There are three folds on the back. It does not have finishing in the form of the material turned back at the neck, sleeves or at the bottom. Fabric is protected from tearing by backstitching. To make putting on the dress easier, I sewed in a zip fastener into the side seam on the armpit-breast line. In the dark blue part of the dress, I sewed the polyester lining of the same colour. For overprint, I used a stencil. I used for fabrics covering paints, similar to those used in screen printing.”

Quote from the book “Helena Modjeska-Icon of Style. From distance to temptation”

Second prize was awarded to work by Iga Sylwestrzak, age 24

“The design is characterized by a minimalistic, contemporary form of the dress, complemented by the geometrical transformation of detail coming from the photo that inspired me. This detail in my design plays a leading role, it was also translated on the outfit’s form.” Quote from the book “Helena Modjeska-Icon of Style. From distance to temptation”

Third prize was awarded to work by Daria Woszczatynska, age 23

“Set submitted to the contest comprises of red jacket and short, simple skirt. It is an outfit for a contemporary woman who admires and respects the achievements of Helena Modjeska. Clothes with overprints of great artists faces are a common tribute to them, also in this design, the characteristic, expressive face of the great actress decorates the back of the jacket. It appears accompanied by red small balls made of fabric-red beads, “contemporary pearls”. The red colour symbolizes the power of character and passion of Modjeska, I was also inspired to use it by the tradition that red was a beloved colour of Barbara Radziwill. Fabrics (jacquard and  cotton)constitute a compromise and bridge between rather rich, the memorable costume of the actress and requirements of contemporary fashion, allowing maximum utility of the outfit.”

Quote from the book “Helena Modjeska-Icon of Style. From distance to temptation”

HONOURABLE MENTION

Justyna Helena Lasota, age 19

SPECIAL PRIZE

Klaudia Nikiel, age 18

HONOURABLE MENTION

Agata Zwirska, age 24

Michal Byra, age 17

Beata Leszczynska, age 17

Diep Nguyen, age 22

My beautiful Darlings,

Which costume is your favourite one?